Hàng Đẫy at seventy: a letter to an old ground
Wooden benches, a scoreboard turned by hand, and the best bánh mì cart in the city.
August 31, 2026
Forty matches a season are now run by officials with less than two years’ experience.

Next issue: Sunday 16 November
One long read on the week’s football, a few short notes and your letters. Free, and it always will be.
Wooden benches, a scoreboard turned by hand, and the best bánh mì cart in the city.
Not the obvious ones. None of them has started more than ten league games.